Archive for the 'BLOG' Category

NICK & DOTTIE: Of Montreal’s Betrothed Bandmates at Richard Lim

Of Montreal's Betrothed Bandmates at Richard Lim

Ok, so they’re not technically bandmates, but I was so honored when Of Montreal’s Dottie Alexander (keyboards) and Nick Gould (production manager) asked me to help design Nick’s suit for their upcoming wedding.

Of Montreal While Nick doesn’t play more than the occasional triangle, he is the man in charge of Of Montreal’s live stage show, which, if you’ve seen it, you’ll understand is no mean feat.

For instance, when’s the last time your indie front man took the stage on a (live) white horse?

Looking for an updated classic inspired by Gregory Peck’s Vespa-scooting slate-grey 2-piece in Roman Holiday, we enlisted the help of the one-and-only Richard Lim.

Richard Lim If you work in Hollywood, Richard needs no introduction as the sartorial expert behind so many productions where suits figure. Fluent in every period, it didn’t take but a few beats before Richard was humming our tune.

With each new interaction with Mr. Lim, I am more amazed and honored to be able to work with him. His shop is like my Shangri-La; and while his reputation precedes him, his manner remains that of the consummate, working craftsman. I suggest clicking on this outstanding portrait to find out more about him:

And I thank him from the bottom of my heart for entertaining us two greasy-haired gentlemen. We’re both still charmed, I’m sure.

Of Montreal's Nick Gould at Richard Lim

For more of our exploits with Of Montreal, click here or here.

And for the second time since my previous post re: Noms de Plume, I recommend the new PBS American Masters documentary on Roman Holiday’s writer, Dalton Trumbo.

After The Fall

Gee, it’s nice to have talented friends. I say it all the time but the sentiment never wears down. For this post, I’m leaking a sample photo from a Winter ‘09 project by friends Bryan Hainer (photographer) and Chris Jones (art director). I’ve borrowed license since it features Darryl Sheard in one of our Vintage Suits for Winter.

The sky’s not falling, it’s just on fire.



Part art and part documentary, Chris and Bryan—as well as their collaborators—each contribute to a series of images approaching an explanation of Where We Are Now (in this case, “Where” is here in Las Vegas, where it often seems like we’re living in the eye of the perfect storm). As good art does, it hits nothing on the head, but leaves room for interpretation—not as device but as as a place for truth to reside.

The project ends with a live photo exhibit so stay tuned for details.

Sixteen Suits For Winter

Here’s a preview of our Vintage Suits for Fall/Winter 2009. Click to enlarge.

Wide Well Chalkstripe
50s 3-Pc Tweed/Velvet
80s 2-Pc Windowpane
50s 4-Pc Country Suit

60s Wool Herringbone
3-Btn Dual Pinstripe
60s Tux
Trouser & Vest

Navy Pinstripe Peak
40s 3-Pc Western
50s White Linen
YSL 3-Pc Pinstripe

Lanvin Narrow Pinstripe
6-Btn Navy Chalkstripe
2-Btn Navy Chalkstripe
50s 2-Pc Black Wool



HOMME DU JOUR: Nom de Plume

plumblossom_5001

sombrero_500

It often intrigues me to observe the history of one customer’s purchases. Particularly when they are this outstanding.

In this case, I happen to know that my patron is a young man—with several noms de plume, including Laslo Javor and Uoy Wang—who has just returned to college. And I would venture, is making quite the impression.

I don’t know his year, but these two items comprise a bold statement even for an upper class-man. If he happens to be a freshman, then truly, hats off.

In fact, Ole!

P.S. Does anyone know if the root of sombrero means “to sleep,” as in “to sleep under the shade of a wide-brimmed hat?” If so, then I’ll point out the obvious visual oxymoron: Who could sleep under such a racket?

P.P.S. On the subject of noms de plume, I highly recommend the new PBS American Masters documentary on Dalton Trumbo.

America Yeah

I don’t get out a ton, I’ll admit, and I don’t get too crazy about bands very often, but when I do I don’t shut up about it. I also convince, cajole and enroll others to listen, photograph, ponder, dress, assist, think, process, make. Your basic band booster.

In the case of America Yeah, I need only channel the stream of inventiveness and unusual structures flowing from the band itself. Harmonies, craftsmanship, and pure old-fashioned energy—the life force of half a dozen young turks seemingly at a crossroads. Theirs, and perhaps ours too. The best I think new music has to offer.

Exciting. Not your Every Day. Pretty much what I live for.

Blessed as I am with talented friends, these photos come courtesy of Andrew Sea James, who was gracious enough to attend, daughter Sadie in tow, what turned out to be a long slog of an evening but one that was totally worth it for everyone involved, except perhaps Sadie. But what a trooper. May she look back one day and remember the moment fondly, particularly as the evening she and Leland managed to rock the exact same outfit.

I’d try to describe America Yeah’s sound, but words escape (in the best possible way), and the way it sounds is pretty much the way it looks in all these great photos by Andrew.

While we await their full-length, due out this Fall, find a way to give your love to America Yeah: Logan, Gino, Dan, Tyler, Chad and Leland.

REPRISE:
Also, while you wait, check out the single, Virginia Marigold, on AY’s myspace page.

RIP: Les Paul

821348557
Via Con Dios.

HOMME DU JOUR: Jared Geller (TONY Getter)

jared_geller_blockhead

photo by Ronen Verbit

With this snapshot, our client Jared Geller proves the adage, Brevity is a Sol LeWitt.

And no doubt wit is just one of the reasons Jared was nominated this past week for a TONY Award in the category of Special Theatrical Event.

So it is with great pride—and thanks to Mrs. Geller on this Mother’s Day (Hi, Mom!)—that we announce Jared’s rare accomplishment of recognition for his production of Slava’s Snowshow, and the start of work on an A FINE TOOTH tuxedo, so Jared stands out against the red carpet at Radio City Music Hall this June 7, 2009.

Now, it’s not going to be easy considering that, among other talents, Jared will be facing off against the producers of Will Ferrell’s, You’re Welcome America: A Final Evening with George W. Bush, but we think he can do it.

So we’ll do our part, and for yours, Jared, CONGRATULATIONS! And KEEP JUMPING!

jared_geller_jumping

photo by Ronen Verbit

To get to know Jared better, we suggest starting with this Time Out interview, in which he discusses his struggles re-creating Judy Garland’s 1961 Carnegie Hall Performance starring one of our longstanding man-crushes, Rufus Wainwright.

Alexandra Hope: A Sheep in Wolf’s Clothing

hope_fantasy_triptych_500

This footage from a new music video for Alexandra Hope was leaked to us as unauthorized use of our DANDY PANTS Men’s Fitted Trousers on a woman.

To which we say, “bravo,” and “touché.”

Dan Johnson of The Beards

danjohnson1

When my friend Dan Johnson, of Conspiracy Of Beards, the San Francisco men’s choir covering the works of Leonard Cohen, told me he was headed to New York to play a Beards show, he said he needed something East Coast.

At first, we started with a lightweight wool, army-green suit from 1962, paired with a mohair turtleneck, but had problems with fit.

So, fit first, we ended up at this number based around a boys size 16 blazer and vest in tan corduroy of a rare quality in manufacture, circa 1966-68, almost undoubtedly made in Hong Kong.

danjohnson2

The shirt, also a boys 16, comes from BEAMS menswear shop of Denver Colorado.

With two ties to complement, allowing versatility dependent upon the fickle Spring weather in New York, we have a sunny-yellow and brown plaid bow tie circa 1930 (above) and a 3-inch cotton tie from Italy circa 1982—exquisite in its coloring, with a base of grey, with blue stripes trimmed in red, leaving an overall impression of an almost lavender hue.

danjohnson3

The mint-condition black Weejuns—also manufactured somewhere between 1964-1986 (why change a classic)—lend that definitive East Coast element, collegiate and determined to succeed, yet, to do so in comfort.

I can picture a young Leonard Cohen leaving the Brill Building with a spring in his step upon receiving his first $250 contract. Maybe even on the way to cash the check.

Anyway, the shoes say JFK, without socks, but until summer will look perfect with a pair of argyles peeking out from beneath a pair of charcoal-and-ash Highwater DANDY PANTS—which are the trousers we fixed Dan up with to finish off the ensemble.

Todd is sewing them up as I write.

Live pics upon Dan’s compliance. Dan?

Go, Beards!

P.S. I’ve heard twice now, “How does one iron a raincoat?” You don’t! You let it fall out. Plus, not only do I prefer the wrinkled texture, it won’t last—a state as fragile as Spring itself.

What Green Means

A minor obsession with green ensued this week while putting together an outfit for client/friend Keyatta Shade, soon to be featured in an SF Guardian article on San Francisco’s Seven Most Social Butterflies.

First, Keyatta’s outfit, and detail, built around a houndstooth blazer and technicolor green button-down he eyed himself in the SHOP:

keyatta_detail1

The red in the fly-fishing vest provides a nice strong contrast with both the jacket and the shirt, as well as a bit of fun in its theme, which is happily appropriate for later winter/early spring.

And the red polka-dot cuff links, as well, add a nice touch, both echoing the vest and commenting on the reverse red polka dots, against the strong black, in the tie.

keyatta_detail2

And perhaps you can’t see them, but the nickle-plated buttons of the fly-fishing vest actually each bear a raised horse head motif, similar to that of a buffalo-head nickle, playing well in light and tying the vest together that much more with the blazer.

green_is_good_button_detail

Plus I’m just a sucker for animal motifs, which indicate masculinity even as they play at a sort of extended boyishness which finds its way into modern manhood in the form of the spirit animal.

darjeeling

But anyway, more on my thoughts about The Animal Kingdom and masculinity later…

Time to dress!

Spring is almost here. But with Punxsutawney Phil seeing his shadow, and this little chic’s load capacity…

chic_cart

…it’s dubious whether we’ll ever get there.

But we will. Sure as shootin’.

So let’s look at some quick fits using green that seem to work for early-Spring (one that can’t get here soon enough, for me):

green_is_good2

This number: First thing anyone’s going to notice is the green pants, as well they should. The Dandy’s skinny legs as shoots, projecting into Spring, ahead of the crowd.

Yet in this first combination, the blue-green three-button blazer, light but still in wool and fully-lined and therefore warm, keeps the trousers somewhat rooted.

And the navy polka dot shirt reminds us of the rainclouds still in the air. Ready to burst at any moment.

But even if this were not enough, the brown horsehair oxfords let others know, with finality—you’re still grounded (even if you are poised to get up on your high horse).

green_is_good1

Another one. Again with the pants, though this time from a more hopeful perspective.

For nothing says “sun, please come,” like pure white.

But again, the brown plaid in the vest keeps us somewhat rooted in memories of a tenacious winter. As does the bruised plum Henley we wear close to our chest.

“Perhaps over coffee, we’ll discuss this economy, but for now, in case you didn’t notice—my pants are green!”

Ok! Now let’s break it down into some pieces.

Not quite ready (like the weather) to go green completely. Why not start with a hybrid?

green_is_good_sweater

Green rooted in brown shows you’re down.

For even as green were naught to be found, the trees still stuck around.

“So, so will I.”

A nearly rebellious attitude, yet still capable of being added up.

Nothing makes me as aggro as waiting around for the weather to change.

So let Mother Nature and Father Time know—they could’ve done a better job. Worked together more. Brought the sun along a bit more forthrightly.

But nooooo

Okay, then: “Rebel for a day”:

green_is_good_motorcycle

Another piece of Teenage Wildlife.

Or, maybe rebellion’s not your thing. And that’s okay, too.

Like this sleepy Spring, perhaps you’re just getting started. And for now, still under the weather.

Then my advice is to zip up and let an icon forward your cause.

green_is_good_lacoste

In this case, the animal print in singleton: Lacoste’s green alligator.

Step on its back and let’s get there, you and I.

To Spring, Young Gentlemen!

P.S. Dig that seafoam suit on Bowie!

DANDY PANTS: At Facade Vintage

A FINE TOOTH Dandy Pants at FACADE VINTAGE

This photo comes courtesy of Facade Vintage, hosts of a recent live tailoring event where A FINE TOOTH head tailor, Todd Hudson, whipped together these babies.

Todd, pictured right, with ubiquitous tape measure.

Fashion Plate at 8

This little man’s been making the rounds of late. Precociously sartorially gifted to say the least (even though that is a mouthful).

Re-posted from: http://welcometothesalon.tumblr.com/post/85891274/fashion-plate-at-eight

fashion plate at 8

or: the littlest babe of the day

as a devotee of AMC’s Mad Men and its flawless aesthetic, i was tickled pink to learn that love for impeccable styling was not lost on arlo weiner- the 8 year old son of series creator matt weiner.

arlo weiner

arlo weiner

arlo’s precocious sartorial sense began early, when at age three he asked his parents for a top hat. since then, he’s been dressing himself and cites Mad Men as an inspiration. he would also like to start designing his own clothes “as soon as his mom buys him a sewing machine.”

rightly so, arlo was recently featured in GQ as “america’s most stylish eight year old.” look here to view a slideshow of some of arlo’s wardrobe favorites, described in his own words.

-jd

Nerd Boyfriend

This was a recent inspiration/revelation:

Re-posted from: http://welcometothesalon.tumblr.com/post/85241226/nerd-boyfriend

Nerd Boyfriend

A new inspiration every day, with follow-on visual critique/cues/clues to the pieces that make the look. No words!

KRAFTWERK at NERD BOYFRIEND on MAR 9

One of those things that’s so good it makes you jealous you didn’t think of/do/make it.

MONORAIL RIDERS

The Nerd Boyfriend link comes from our friend Remy The Restless at MONORAIL RIDERS, who also just submitted a new mix for your working pleasure, here:

CURRENCY MIX TAPE v2 DOLLAR BILL at MONORAIL RIDERS

(Can’t quite figure out how to re-post MONORAIL’S MIXES so you can just press PLAY. I’ll keep trying…)

CURRENCY MIX TAPE v2

V’s New Side Project

You know V.

He’s gifted with a virulent strain of OCD, as you’ll see, in this trailer of filth:


the sopranos, uncensored. from victor solomon on Vimeo.

http://victorsolomon.com/get-weird/sopranos-uncensored/

HOMME DU JOUR: Gino Ray

GINO RAY at A FINE TOOTH

Special thanks to Gino Ray of the band, America Yeah, for modeling our second round of Winter 08 inventory. So many good images, I couldn’t pick just one. (Click to enlarge this panel).

Items will be up in the SHOP and on ZEEN in a few days.

For larger images of Gino, see our Flickr page.

TESTIMONIALS: Thinking about ordering from A FINE TOOTH?

TESTIMONIALS at A FINE TOOTH

TESTIMONIALS at A FINE TOOTH

Thank you so much for your really quite remarkable customer service; it’s incredibly refreshing to find such a conscientious and personable retailer.

My regards,

- Max Melton

Got my Dandy Pants a couple days ago - lovely!  Couldn’t be happier.

-Eric

Oh lawd, I just got the 70’s Dior glasses today–and they are ambrosial! Really! Phenomenal! And they fit quite perfectly, too. And t’was a rather quick delivery!

- Tylur

Yes – they just arrived.  LOVE EM!

They’re a little loose around the waist, but I’m wearing a t-shirt today and not an oxford.  So, I wanna see what they’re like with a shirt tucked in.  I suspect that will do it.

Beautful pants.

- Jared Geller

So basically I had A Fine Tooth Christmas. I love everything I got and thanks for helping my mum out. I love both the coats. They are of the utmost quality and detail.

The pants are magnificent. They are probably the best fitting pants I’ve ever owned and I will definitely be ordering another pair sometime soon.

Thanks for everything and have a happy new year.

- Kevin

The package arrived today. Everything looks great and fits beautifully. Zeen.me is a brilliant idea, and has worked perfectly. Thanks a lot for providing such a professional and friendly service. I’ll definitely be ordering from you again in the future.

- Andrew Key (Shrewsbury, U.K.)

Coats came in today and look great. Thanks a milli.

- Victor Solomon

Thanks for all the info and the speedy reply. I went ahead and purchased the bag last night after I realized  it was meant to be. I’ll keep an eye on your site…your taste is exceptional.

- Matthew Brown

They [the pants] landed! What can I say, pure class. Thank you.

- Nick

Thanks for the speedy delivery. I got all the items and they look and fit great. Your online shop is my favorite.

- Kevin O’Leary

Again, I am floored by your generosity. The shirt you included is beautiful and stupendously soft. It goes perfectly with the suit, as well you know, and quite a few things more besides. I imagine it becoming a staple. A special mention must be made, also, of the tie you selected. The big, white polka dots are just right for this very silly summer we are having.

You are a very kind man and I am very glad to do business with you.

- Reggie Chamberlain-King

James,
If this is not an ad for your pants I don’t know what is.
The shot towards the very end….OMG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SIyCCBguyBI&feature=related

Thanks for making my boyfriend look SEXY
xoxo

- Alissa A.

I got the shoes Yesterday and they are Amazing. They fit perfectly and look better then I thought they would, thank you for all your help.

- Sage Johnson

I received the order yesterday and everything is, well, amazing. I’ll gladly send some pictures as they come in, and in the meantime I’ll be keeping a close eye on the webstore for new goods.

Best,
- August O’Mahoney

[...]  first and foremost let me tell you the pants are perfect (of course) so thank you once again!
- Shane Meistrich

I thoroughly enjoy all of the clothes you have on sale on your website. If only I had the money to purchase your entire collection.

- Dylan Mangum

Hi James,
I received the package, tried on the jacket and read the notice. The blazer is wonderful, you don’t have chance to have it back in spite of the tears! :) I have a good tailor, used to shorten and tighten my pants, I think it would not be a problem to sew the two tears. However you have been very friendly and honest giving the pocket square (nice!) and the discount, I’m sure I will order again your stylish clothing because you have a really good taste.
Thank you for all!

- Marco Montagner (Italy)

thanks man you guys have some killer stuff keep up the good work, and when will your accessories page be up?

[...] oh and the sunglasses came today and they are just about the coolest pair i have ever owned.

- Alek Cvetkov

You guys are the bomb diggity!

I got the 50’s western shirt from you guys and its the best. I think I have worn it every day since I got it.

Thanks guys :D I will definitely buy from you again!

-Cody Schmidt

Hey James,

I got my #15spectacles in the old snail mail yesterday, and I am very much pleased. I feel like Sally Jesse Raphael just as I had anticipated!  Thanks for your more than helpful emails and outstanding customer services.  I have never had such an outstanding internets wide world webz purchasing transaction…except for that one time…anyway, it is no wonder we have become best friends forever.   Till my next purchase! Carry On!

As you were,
Love and Hugs,
oxoxxo
TTFN-BFF

- Erinn Capozzi

Hi James,

I’m writing this time. I guess it’s because it’s my behind that your trousers are covering and not Margherita’s.

They’re great. I couldn’t have asked for better! I’ll definitely be making more orders soon…well soon enough…we just spent our holidays in the States and let’s say finances suck at the moment.  [...]

Thank you really, ever so much.

- Colum Sutherland (Italy by way of U.K.)

James hello,

The eyeglasses are amazing and lovely and they make me happy! No worry about the scratched lens I have re-filled with my own prescription of course. And thank you very much for the discount sent.

I wish you good luck and thanks again,
- Anna Gracheva

Hey James!

Got the hat earlier today in the mail. I’m really excited about it. Looks and fits really well.

Thanks a bunch,
- Kevin

James,

From your detailed email it is clear to me that you not only posess an in depth knowledge about apparel but an intense resourcefulness when it comes to snaring the right piece or pieces for an individual. Your email is a digital reflection of your professionalism. I do thank you for your time and attention in a most thoughtful reply.

With gratitude,

- Asad Dean

I need me some pants, and you’re the best thing goin, as far as i can tell.

- Noah Georgeson

Dude, I debuted the pants at a party on Saturday night.  They were a hit!  I’ve never gotten so many complements about pants before.  Jeans, yes.  Pants, well that’s new!  [...]  yeah, one of my lady friends said to me “Okay chaat you gotta wear those pants whenever we hang out.”

- Chaatie B.

Hi James

Just a quick note to let you know the Aquascutum suit I ordered from you has arrived in good order.

Really happy with it too so thanks again for the great service.

Regards
- Lee Speed

Hi!
I have receved the trousers. Favolous!!! So i think I’ll order more in the future!
Thank you for all.

- Emiliano Corazza (Belluno, Italy)

Todd and James

I got the pants today….THEY ARE FANTASTIC!!!!!!! I love them and they fit perfectly.

Thank you sooooo much!

- Ken Freeman

James,

Received the trousers today - they look and fit great. Just wanted to say thanks and tell you that you guys do nice work. I’ll be ordering my next pair soon.

Thanks again.

- Aaron Melheim

Hey-ya.

Saw your ad on facebook (!) and am an instant fan – plan on buying multiple trousers as I’ve been lookin for what you’ve got since forever.

[...]

Thanks for everything.  Can’t wait to order.  Keep up the awesome work.

Jared Geller (NYC)

Got the pants. They are fucking great. I have never had anything like them. I think i need good shoes…what do you advise?
- Tarik Thami (Tokyo)

James,

Thanks for the response. I have e-mailed you before, and your responses are never short on information–and I very much appreciate this–so thanks again for your help.

- Bryan Cash

SHOP UPDATE: Winter 2008

MEN’S PLAID CAPE from A FINE TOOTH, WINTER 2008

We’ve just begun listing our vintage inventory for Winter 2008.

In addition to the SHOP, all items will be listed on ZEEN (http://zeen.me) so that you can see how every new piece will fit you.

You’ll also have the choice to receive daily or individual emails when new items are added.

The amazing plaid cape you see here was made in the 1940s at the Bemidji Woolen Mills in Bemidji, Minnesota. It’s paired with a navy felt tall hat called “The Warrior” from the same era.

Inscription on the tall hat reads “The Warrior, by Oklahoma Indian Dev Corporation. Made Especially For L.S.J.”

HOMME DU JOUR: Mike Foley

MIKE FOLEY at A FINE TOOTH

Special thanks to Mike Foley for posing in some of our new vintage items for Fall/Winter.

Mike is a buyer for Zappos.com and Action Sports here in Las Vegas. He is that rare combination of gentlemen and free-wheeler who’s especially suited to outdoors ensembles.

In addition to being a great sport, Mike looked extra smart in everything we forced him into.

To receive early notice of the Fall/Winter SHOP release, register or Subscribe by Email (to the right).

Styling by Thomas Keeley. Photos by yours, truly.

HOMME DU JOUR: Victor Solomon

VICTOR SOLOMON at A FINE TOOTH

Here in the rain stands Victor Solomon, the embodiment of simple elegance in A FINE TOOTH, head-to-toe: Brown double-breasted raincoat, white oxford, Dandy Pants FITTED TROUSERS and buckled loafers by Thom McAnn.

Victor—or “V” as friends know him—is a filmmaker and director of these five short films based on the book Anthropology by Dan Rhodes (which we had the honor of styling).

HIS & HERS: Our New Vintage Category

His & Hers Vintage at A FINE TOOTH

I’m a big fan of Stanley Marcus, so with tongues-in-cheek we’ll be trying something new at A FINE TOOTH this holiday season: His & Hers Vintage (starting with these lovely 1920s-era snowshoes, just the thing for a romantic walk in the snow).

Each His & Hers offering aims to be a unique and amusing pairing, sometimes involving special services or events.

So, lovebirds, be on the lookout.