A FINE TOOTH

When my friend Dan Johnson, of Conspiracy Of Beards, the San Francisco men’s choir covering the works of Leonard Cohen, told me he was headed to New York to play a Beards show, he said he needed something East Coast.

At first, we started with a lightweight wool, army-green suit from 1962, paired with a mohair turtleneck, but had problems with fit.

So, fit first, we ended up at this number based around a boys size 16 blazer and vest in tan corduroy of a rare quality in manufacture, circa 1966-68, almost undoubtedly made in Hong Kong.

The shirt, also a boys 16, comes from BEAMS menswear shop of Denver Colorado.

With two ties to complement, allowing versatility dependent upon the fickle Spring weather in New York, we have a sunny-yellow and brown plaid bow tie circa 1930 (above) and a 3-inch cotton tie from Italy circa 1982—exquisite in its coloring, with a base of grey, with blue stripes trimmed in red, leaving an overall impression of an almost lavender hue.

The mint-condition black Weejuns—also manufactured somewhere between 1964-1986 (why change a classic)—lend that definitive East Coast element, collegiate and determined to succeed, yet, to do so in comfort.

I can picture a young Leonard Cohen leaving the Brill Building with a spring in his step upon receiving his first $250 contract. Maybe even on the way to cash the check.

Anyway, the shoes say JFK, without socks, but until summer will look perfect with a pair of argyles peeking out from beneath a pair of charcoal-and-ash Highwater DANDY PANTS—which are the trousers we fixed Dan up with to finish off the ensemble.

Todd is sewing them up as I write.

Live pics upon Dan’s compliance. Dan?

Go, Beards!

P.S. I’ve heard twice now, “How does one iron a raincoat?” You don’t! You let it fall out. Plus, not only do I prefer the wrinkled texture, it won’t last—a state as fragile as Spring itself.

A minor obsession with green ensued this week while putting together an outfit for client/friend Keyatta Shade, soon to be featured in an SF Guardian article on San Francisco’s Seven Most Social Butterflies.

First, Keyatta’s outfit, and detail, built around a houndstooth blazer and technicolor green button-down he eyed himself in the SHOP:

The red in the fly-fishing vest provides a nice strong contrast with both the jacket and the shirt, as well as a bit of fun in its theme, which is happily appropriate for later winter/early spring.

And the red polka-dot cuff links, as well, add a nice touch, both echoing the vest and commenting on the reverse red polka dots, against the strong black, in the tie.

And perhaps you can’t see them, but the nickle-plated buttons of the fly-fishing vest actually each bear a raised horse head motif, similar to that of a buffalo-head nickle, playing well in light and tying the vest together that much more with the blazer.

Plus I’m just a sucker for animal motifs, which indicate masculinity even as they play at a sort of extended boyishness which finds its way into modern manhood in the form of the spirit animal.

But anyway, more on my thoughts about The Animal Kingdom and masculinity later…

Time to dress!

Spring is almost here. But with Punxsutawney Phil seeing his shadow, and this little chic’s load capacity…

…it’s dubious whether we’ll ever get there.

But we will. Sure as shootin’.

So let’s look at some quick fits using green that seem to work for early-Spring (one that can’t get here soon enough, for me):

This number: First thing anyone’s going to notice is the green pants, as well they should. The Dandy’s skinny legs as shoots, projecting into Spring, ahead of the crowd.

Yet in this first combination, the blue-green three-button blazer, light but still in wool and fully-lined and therefore warm, keeps the trousers somewhat rooted.

And the navy polka dot shirt reminds us of the rainclouds still in the air. Ready to burst at any moment.

But even if this were not enough, the brown horsehair oxfords let others know, with finality—you’re still grounded (even if you are poised to get up on your high horse).

Another one. Again with the pants, though this time from a more hopeful perspective.

For nothing says “sun, please come,” like pure white.

But again, the brown plaid in the vest keeps us somewhat rooted in memories of a tenacious winter. As does the bruised plum Henley we wear close to our chest.

“Perhaps over coffee, we’ll discuss this economy, but for now, in case you didn’t notice—my pants are green!”

Ok! Now let’s break it down into some pieces.

Not quite ready (like the weather) to go green completely. Why not start with a hybrid?

Green rooted in brown shows you’re down.

For even as green were naught to be found, the trees still stuck around.

“So, so will I.”

A nearly rebellious attitude, yet still capable of being added up.

Nothing makes me as aggro as waiting around for the weather to change.

So let Mother Nature and Father Time know—they could’ve done a better job. Worked together more. Brought the sun along a bit more forthrightly.

But nooooo…

Okay, then: “Rebel for a day”:

Another piece of Teenage Wildlife.

Or, maybe rebellion’s not your thing. And that’s okay, too.

Like this sleepy Spring, perhaps you’re just getting started. And for now, still under the weather.

Then my advice is to zip up and let an icon forward your cause.

In this case, the animal print in singleton: Lacoste’s green alligator.

Step on its back and let’s get there, you and I.

To Spring, Young Gentlemen!

P.S. Dig that seafoam suit on Bowie!

This little man’s been making the rounds of late. Precociously sartorially gifted to say the least (even though that is a mouthful).

Re-posted from: http://welcometothesalon.tumblr.com/post/85891274/fashion-plate-at-eight

fashion plate at 8

or: the littlest babe of the day

as a devotee of AMC’s Mad Men and its flawless aesthetic, i was tickled pink to learn that love for impeccable styling was not lost on arlo weiner- the 8 year old son of series creator matt weiner.

arlo’s precocious sartorial sense began early, when at age three he asked his parents for a top hat. since then, he’s been dressing himself and cites Mad Men as an inspiration. he would also like to start designing his own clothes “as soon as his mom buys him a sewing machine.”

rightly so, arlo was recently featured in GQ as “america’s most stylish eight year old.” look here to view a slideshow of some of arlo’s wardrobe favorites, described in his own words.

-jd

Us either, in many cases. Until then, join us at the off-blogway salon.

http://welcometothesalon.tumblr.com/

Drinks free (at least until you get your coat back from the coat room).

We’ve just begun listing our vintage inventory for Winter 2008.

In addition to the SHOP, all items will be listed on ZEEN (http://zeen.me) so that you can see how every new piece will fit you.

You’ll also have the choice to receive daily or individual emails when new items are added.

The amazing plaid cape you see here was made in the 1940s at the Bemidji Woolen Mills in Bemidji, Minnesota. It’s paired with a navy felt tall hat called “The Warrior” from the same era.

Inscription on the tall hat reads “The Warrior, by Oklahoma Indian Dev Corporation. Made Especially For L.S.J.”

At various periods in my life it’s been HBO, or… a Life. Right now, it’s HBO.

But for those of us lucky enough to have HBO, right now my new favorite movie is playing On Demand and it’s called Rocket Science.

Don’t let the derivative marketing shew you away—the Peachee folder poster, the yellow Futura lifted from Wes Anderson—this movie is more than worth the time. And the characters developed and the acting superb.

And for those who might wonder. No, I had nothing to do with the styling (sadly). And no, I never joined the debate team (sadly). Nor did I ever manifest any major speech pathologies. A slight lisp. But nothing selling a few sea shells down by the sea shore wasn’t able to redress.